Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Lazy day at Big Beach

Since I had dragged Gavin all over Maui yesterday through hours of driving and tortured him with a four-mile hike (he really doesn’t like hiking), I let him decide what to do today, which was mostly just relaxing.  :)  We slept in, hung out at the condo for a bit so he could do some computer work (lame :)  ) and then headed to the nearby Big Beach.

Big Beach.
Yes, it is big.  :)
The weather today wasn’t all that warm, so neither of us felt like getting into the water.  We just read books in the sand instead, and watched the humpback whales off shore again.  One flapped its tail out of the water over and over again, at least a few dozen times!



How I spent most of my time at Big Beach:
wrapped up in two beach towels because I was cold! 
But I took off the towels for a couple photos.  :)
I got brave and waded ankle deep in the chilly water, then a sudden wave
snuck up and soaked the bottom of my skirt.  :)
After our lazy beach day we headed back to Lahaina for dinner.  We tried out the Lahaina Fish Company, where our unimpressive dinner was accompanied by a pretty tasty Lava Flow, a Hawaiian drink that is a piña colada with strawberry puree dumped on top to look like a volcano.

We turned in early, as tomorrow will be another early morning for us; we’re going to SCUBA the nearby Molokini Crater – a nearly-submerged volcano crater with a coral reef all around and in it!

Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Chocolate stalactites, tricking falls

Today was our 7th wedding anniversary, and we decided to celebrate it by getting up at 6am and spending the entire day in a car. :)  After a brief stop at the grocery store to buy sandwiches and water, we headed to the north side of the island for a day of driving through the jungle, past waterfalls, taking turns over one-lane bridges and on the edge of sheer cliffs.

Our first stop was Ho’okipa Lookout, where our viewpoint above the ocean and beach showed dozens of surfers tackling some pretty impressive waves close to some nasty, jagged lava rocks.

Big waves at Ho'okipa Lookout.
Evidently sometimes they get REALLY big - this ledge was pretty high
off the ground!
Closer to the waves at Ho'okipa Lookout.
A surfer at Ho'okipa beach.
Big waves!  (the ocean AND my giant hair, ha!)
Next we stopped at Twin Falls, the first waterfall on the road to Hana.  A short walk was supposed to bring us to two different levels of falls, but the upper level was closed.  The lower level was a small waterfall into a chilly-looking pool that a couple hardy tourists were jumping into, but it was still early in the morning and a bit chilly, so Gavin and I didn’t follow their example.  :)

We stopped for an early lunch at the Ke’anae village, a peninsula off the mainland where a small community lives.  There is a beach park on the ocean, and as we ate our sandwiches we got to wash the waves crashing on the lava rock formations on the shore.

Ke'anae beach park, our lunch break stop.

Our next brief stop was the Wailua Valley State Wayside, a little pullout where a short walk up a few stairs gave us a view into Ko’olau gap, which is a break in rim of Haleakala crater and a beautiful green valley.   There were supposed to be waterfalls visible, but they were completely dry.  Most of the waterfalls we had seen on this road trip have just been trickles, as it hasn’t rained recently.

Wailua Valley State Wayside.
Our next stop was Makapipi Falls, where the 1 lane bridge above the falls gave us a vertigo-inducing view DOWN the waterfall.  Of course our immature selves had a bit of a snicker at the name of the falls.  :)  (make a pee pee, if you pronounce it the way we were...)

We took a slight detour off the road to Hana to see the Hana Lava Tube.  The lava tube is an underground cave system formed by lava flows.  The stalactites and rare stalagmites were formed by lava rather than by dripping water, which created a some really interesting formations that looked like melting chocolate.  Much of the inside of the cave was covered in sparkling silver and gold, which were colonies of bacteria that live in the dark!   There was no lighting; we just had to take the flashlights given to us when we paid our admission fee.  At the end of the public part of the cave about ¼ mile in, we both turned off our flashlights and were surrounded by absolute pitch darkness, with only the sounds of dripping water.  I couldn’t stand it for too long, since some of the “helpful” plaques along the walk had mentioned hammerhead worms that rappel down from the ceiling, millipedes, and pure white crickets that live in the dark…  :)

There is a maze of red ti plants in front of the lava tube.  We didn't go
through the maze because we were feeling short on time.  :)
Stalactites here look like melted chocolate!

After the Hana Lava Tube, we visited Pi’ilanihale Heiau and Kahanu Garden.  The botanical garden had a number of native plants and trees with plaques that detailed their uses in Hawaiian culture.   Pi’ilanihale Heiau inside the gardens is the largest temple in Polynesia, made of black lava rocks.  We were not able to see much of it, as it was blocked off from tourists by a row of dense trees.

Kahanu Garden's "treacherous" coconut grove. There were dozens of signs
around it warning visitors away from walking under the coconut trees
in case a coconut fell on your head.  :)
Kahanu Garden and Pi'ilanihale Heiau.
Pi'ilanihale Heiau, as close as we could get to it.
Walking through Kahanu Garden.

Our next stop was Wai’anapanapa State Park, where we took a short walk to Pa’iloa Bay, said to be Maui’s prettiest black sand beach.  We didn’t stay long here, as the surf was rough and we still weren’t to the end of our drive, but I found the shiny black sand here really intriguing.

Pa'iloa Bay.
Black sand, blue water at Pa'iloa Bay.

Our final stop was the southern end of the Haleakala State Park, where we stopped to do the Pipiwai hike.  This hike was supposed to lead to two waterfalls and a bamboo forest.  I wasn’t sure how long the hike was (turns out four miles round trip…  :D ), but I wanted to see the bamboo forest, though Gavin was protesting that we were going to get stuck in the dark.  :)  So we took a pretty brisk pace, practically almost jogging the whole way.  The first part of the hike was suffused with the sickly sweet aroma of rotting berries that had fallen from the trees above the path.  The first waterfall (Makahiku Falls), like many others on the road to Hana, was just a trickle due to lack of rain.  We continued on the hike and came across a huge banyan tree.  At this point Gavin wanted to turn back, but a couple coming back the other way said we should at least go see the bamboo forest, so I convinced him to keep going.  :)

Makahiku Falls, like others of the day, was
tiny.
A huge banyan tree on the Pipiwai hike. 
Pools from small waterfalls on the way up to
Waimoku Falls.
A little higher on the path, we started crossing over the Pipiwai stream and over several small waterfalls, and then after crossing one bridge suddenly we were surrounded by nothing but bamboo; we had arrived at the bamboo forest!

Peeking through the bamboo.  :)
The trail up through the bamboo forest.
Looking up through the bamboo.
At this point we decided to keep going to the end of the hike, the 400 foot tall Waimoku Falls.  This waterfall was also thin due to lack of rain, but the height was definitely impressive!  Unfortunately, we couldn’t walk up to the bottom of the falls because it was closed due to flash flooding.

Waimoku Falls.
After practically running back down the trail, we got back into the car and decided to drive down the south side of the island rather than going back up the road to Hana to get home.  It was definitely a good decision!  The road wasn’t too bad, though unpaved in places and very narrow. It had lots of fun curves hugging cliff faces and some of the best views of the entire drive today! We stopped the car and watched the sun set into the ocean, then continued on our way.

Maui sunset.
Our trusty MINIVAN rental. Our rental car company offered a deal of
"cheapest rate available for whatever car we give you," and we got a
minivan.  We refused to upgrade to something else out of stubbornness.  :)

Since we had picked this southern route, it took us a LONG time to get back to our side of the island, so long that we didn’t have time to stop at our condo and shower/change for our anniversary dinner reservation at the Lahaina Grill!  So our sweaty, unwashed selves, me in my dusty Five Fingers shoes, humidity-induced, massive mane of wild hair, eyeliner almost completely sweat off, and Gavin in his dirty hiking sandals and sweaty t-shirt, arrived at the Lahaina Grill and had a fancy dinner among people dressed to the nines in their best Hawaiian dresses and khakis.  :)

Our sweaty, dirty selves classin' up the place at Lahaina Grill.
Gavin and our anniversary dessert, aptly named "The
Road to Hana. The stalactites at the Hana Lava Tube
had me craving chocolate for the rest of the day.  :)

After dinner we drove back to our condo and crashed into bed.   No plan for tomorrow, though I am guessing Gavin will ask it involve some actual relaxing.  :)

Monday, January 18, 2016

Down in "the Dumps"

We arrived on Maui late last night, so no lovely scenic drive to welcome us to Hawaii.  We drove down to Kiheh and checked into our lovely condo, started a load of laundry (since we had been in Montana for a few days prior to Hawaii) and turned in.

Morning greeted us with a lovely view of the condo complex’s gardens, awash with fuscia, magenta and purple blooms, and the ocean barely visible beyond it.  We headed to the grocery store a few blocks down to grab stuff to make breakfast, then after breakfast back at the condo we went back into town to get Gavin a UPF swim shirt; he had forgotten his at home, and sunscreen damages coral reefs.  We had planned to snorkel on the recommended north side of the island at Honolua Bay, but the check-out guy at the snorkel place said there are too many waves in the winter for snorkeling on the north side of the island.  He told us to try Malu’aka Beach, which is known for sea turtles and might be calmer.
Gavin on the balcony of our condo, lovely gardens below!

Malu’aka beach was lovely, but still very rough surf. It was windy and a perfect day for lazing on the beach, but not so hot I wanted to get into the rough and chilly water.  Gavin checked it out for me while I read a book in the shade.  :) When he got back, he said you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face in the water, and he also lost his mask and snorkel when a wave knocked them off!  But the trip to the beach was totally worth it anyway when we got to see 3-4 humpback whales breaching off shore!


Malu'aka beach.
After Malu’aka, we headed a little farther south and had lunch at Jawz Fish Tacos food truck.  I had really tasty fish tacos and Gavin had a nice pork burrito.   We also got to try Hawaiian Shaved Ice, which is basically a snowcone, but bigger and more syrupy-sweet.  I had piña colada, pineapple and strawberry flavors mixed together.  It was so sweet that I couldn’t finish it, and after Gavin finished his, his teeth hurt from all the sugar.  :)

Jawz Fish Tacos, and my Hawaiian shaved ice.
After lunch, we decided to head farther south for another recommended snorkeling spot called “The Dumps” in the Ahihi-Kina’u Natural Reserve.  We drove through the desolation of Maui’s youngest lava flow from somewhere between 1480 and 1600, and then parked and walked a path along the coast to the black sand beach called “The Dumps.”  The water was still way too choppy and dangerous for snorkeling, especially among all the sharp lava rocks jutting out of the ocean, so we opted for a bit of a hike instead.  We hiked past fascinating parts of the shoreline that were a combination of jet black and snow white rocks and sand; black were lava and white were dead coral, and also through seemingly endless stretches of the old lava flow.

Lava landscape from 1480-1600! You can see the trail of the flow going
up Haleakala (the volcano).

Ready to hike the southern coast of Maui in the Ahihi-Kina'u Nature Reserve.
 
White sand, black rocks, blue ocean.

Dead wood bleached by the ocean.

Farther down the path.

Hiking in the lava rocks.

Landscape of the Ahihi-Kina'u Nature Reserve.

Path through the lava flow.

Beach of lava rocks and dead coral.

After our hike we drove a couple hours up to the summit of the Haleakala volcano crater to watch the sunset.  The summit is a little over 10,000 feet above sea level, so we drove through the cloud layer and ended up way above it!  We weren’t exactly prepared with proper gear for this elevation; we were pretty cold!!  But the sun setting above the clouds was incredible!

Just above the clouds, maybe about 2/3 of the way up the volcano.

The road to the summit.

Lots of people gathered to watch the sunset.

Freezing my tail off up at 10,000 feet.  :) 
Sunset above the clouds.

Yoga in the clouds.  :)

Gavin and I at sunset.

Sunset is blocked a bit by the observatory.

Sunset over the observatory.

The last moments.
After watching the sun set, we headed down the mountain and stopped in the town of Kula for dinner.  I ordered their “bistro special,” which was a version of Hawaiian pizza with pineapple and pulled pork – amazing!!!  Plus I can now say I have eaten Hawaiian pizza in Hawaii.  :)


Since we were tired from all the driving, we grabbed a piece of coconut cake to go from the Kula bistro and headed back to our condo to relax and turn in.  Tomorrow will be a long day of road tripping the Road to Hana!